Mariscos Tulum’s unique duo: Octopus, fajita

Mariscos Tulum serves a plate of grilled octopus and fajita. (Travis M. Whitehead | Valley Morning Star)

HARLINGEN — Octopus and fajita.

It seems a rather strange pairing, and you would never find them together anywhere…

Except at Mariscos Tulum.

I pass Mariscos Tulum at 102 N. 77 Sunshine Strip several times a day as I go about the daily routines of my life. I have been passing this restaurant on this busy thoroughfare for years, and the name Tulum always conjures images of old Mayan cities in the very southern places of Mexico and jungles and beaches and blue seas.

I have not yet explored the menu of this restaurant with its listings of Mexican seafood. I am exploring it now in a festival-like atmosphere with colorful papel picado and the valances along the window with playful images of ships and pirates and palm trees.

I had to look around and figure out where to sit, or even if I should take a seat or wait for someone to seat me, because no one greeted me at the door. They barely even acknowledged my presence so I went to the counter and asked what I should do. They said I could choose my table.

I took a table in a corner and observed two older women enter the restaurant and receive the same service as I. They looked around, waited and took a seat. They spoke together in hushed Spanish for a few moments before a waitress brought them menus.

I am looking right now at my menu and I’m quite impressed and even intrigued.

“Torre de Mariscos,” says the top listing for appetizers. “Stuffed crab, agua chile, botanita.”

Mariscos Tulum serves a plate of grilled octopus and fajita. (Travis M. Whitehead | Valley Morning Star)

The fish ceviche in the “Seafood Cocktails” section instantly reminds me of the first ceviche I ever tasted in the Republic of Panama many years ago.

“Cancun Combo” and “Cozumel Combo” take me again to the south of Mexico. The “Filete al Mojo de Ajo” brings me to Playa Azul on the Pacific Coast of the State of Michoacan, Mexico. I’m thinking now of the fascination of sitting in a café at a table on the bare sand beneath a thatched roof and ordering “Mojarra al Mojo de Ajo” while the wind comes off the ocean.

Today, however, I seek to create a new memory of something I have never tried. This “Pulpo Tulum” a marriage of grilled octopus and seasoned fajita, captures my attention.

I cannot recall ever seeing these two together. Octopus generally do not graze in pastures with cattle, nor in any of my diving experiences have I ever observed cows hanging out with octopus in the coral reef.

I do not believe they would ever get along, but they are doing fine now on my plate. The service now has become very good and the waitress attends to me and the table with the older women very well. I have chips and a nice broth, and the octopus is delicious and the beef fajita has a taste, a very fine taste, that is new to me.

Mariscos Tulum serves a plate of grilled octopus and fajita. (Travis M. Whitehead | Valley Morning Star)

I’ve enjoyed my visit to this restaurant, and the steady flow of patrons in and out of the doors is a testament to the excellence and consistency of flavors found here. Such a place with fine food and a delightful atmosphere must always have someone greeting customers the moment they enter, especially those who are getting a first impression.

No doubt this was a momentary exception rather than the rule, and this small detail will not keep me from returning to “Mariscos Tulum” for another fine meal of Mexican seafood, music, and color.

Hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

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