Editorial: Valley eateries now have the chance to shoot for the vaunted Michelin star

1 month ago 41

For the past couple of years, two Rio Grande Valley establishments have earned recognition from the prestigious James Beard Foundation, which recognizes excellency in the culinary world. Ana Liz Pulido, owner of Ana Liz Taqueria in Mission, recently was named Best Chef in Texas, and Las Ramblas at Market Square in Brownsville has been a finalist in the Outstanding Bar category two years running.

They and the Valley’s other outstanding restaurateurs finally can aspire to even greater heights: the Michelin star.

That star has been out of reach, not only here but throughout Texas — until now.

It’s an odd oversight. Texas cuisine is known far and wide as among the best and most distinctive food fare. Whether it’s tacos, chili, barbecue or chicken fried steak, the Lone Star State has pleased the palates of countless diners here and inspired copycats across the country and even around the world.

While our gastronomic delights certainly are no secret, however, they’ve largely been ignored by arguably the top tier of restaurant reviewers — the folks at Michelin.

Finally, that slight has ended. For the first time, the global travel guide publisher has awarded stars to Texas restaurants — 15 of them, in fact.

The Michelin star is arguably the highest honor to which restaurants can aspire. Dozens of movies, TV and web shows, both real and fictional, have documented kitchens’ struggles to earn such recognition.

Reviewers can award up to three stars, but the top level is rare. Even a single star places recipients among the world’s culinary elite. It also is a boon for business, as restaurants report increases in patronage long after the initial attention of receiving the star has waned.

In this initial set of stars, no Texas business received more than one, and all but a couple are in the state’s largest cities. The closest Michelin-rated restaurants to the Valley are in San Antonio.

But it’s a start.

Also, Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine aren’t well represented among the recipients. Maybe we shouldn’t be too surprised; Michelin reviewers’ palates might be more familiar with cassoulets and beef bourguignon than with carnitas and barbacoa. We expect they’ll come around; after all, Mexican food is the most popular cuisine in the country — yep, more than even burgers and pizza. In fact, it’s one of only a handful of global cuisines that the UN recognizes as a cultural treasure.

We also note that in addition to the quality of food and the mastery of techniques — tenderizing fajitas, anyone? — criteria for earning a star includes the personality of the chef. Texas chefs certainly aren’t lacking in personality, but the reviewers might have to get used to our state’s high-energy tamal builders or gruff steakhouse pit bosses.

Still, it’s good to see that our state’s excellent and diverse chefs finally have a chance to be star-struck, after being overlooked for far too long. And we know that many Valley residents will be happy to recommend any one of several that deserve consideration. We look forward to the inevitable day when that attention extends to the unique and flavorful fare we enjoy daily in South Texas.

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