Brownsville’s Toscafino is elegant Italian fare in relaxing ambience

BROWNSVILLE — A man in a brown uniform brings a sparkler fountain mounted on a piece of cake or some type of pastry.

The sparks sizzling and snapping charge the excitement of the diners at the long table, where the waiter places the gushing flame into the dim light of the dining room of Toscafino.

The nine women dressed in fine apparel and the lone male at the end of the table sing “Estas Son Las Mananitas” and then “Happy Birthday.” They stand and embrace and take pictures and take their seats again. The manner and the conversations of the diners convey intellect and social standing and purpose.

This is certainly an important occasion for these learned individuals. Perhaps this is why they have chosen Toscafino, an elegant Italian restaurant at 3001 Pable Kisel Blvd.

I have come to Toscafino on a Monday evening. Conventional thinking says Monday evenings are slow, but things are not slow at Toscafino. Instead, diners in fine clothes and with a refined manner have gathered around tables of a dark wood grain on seats upholstered with the color of cappuccino.

The menu before me at Toscafino intrigues me with listings of fine Italian meals.

Salmon with shrimp.

Sounds delicious, but so do the pistachio rack of lamb, the mahi mahi tacos, the chicken ratatouille, the …

My oh my, so many choices, and I can only choose one.

The moment I stepped into Toscafino, a waitress greeted me and asked if I wanted to sit at the bar or at a table. I request a table. She leads me to a table against a wall and the back of the seating has a calming wave pattern in earth tones.

A waiter comes to my table immediately and asks, “How many? Just one?”

I say yes, just one, and his response indicates this is outstanding and his demeanor throughout the evening indicates a sincere desire to ensure I have a pleasant evening.

“Drinks?” he asks.

“Just water,” I answer.

Chicken marsala with a side of fettuccini alfredo is pictured Monday, March 31, 2025, at Toscafino in Brownsville. (Travis M. Whitehead | Valley Morning Star)

He brings me water and strips of flatbread and a small plate of dipping sauce composed of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. I enjoy dipping the flatbread into the sauce, and I take another moment to absorb my surroundings.

There is a class and an elegance about this place, a cool rhythm and a genteel calm. I admit I feel somewhat out of place because I am not classy, and I am not elegant. The wait staff gives me the same quality of service as everyone else, and that is impressive and classy.

I like the dim lights and the curious swirling clover leaf shape of several light fixtures descending from a high ceiling. The high ceiling and the curving light fixtures and the expanse of the dining room have a soothing effect on me.

I finally decide on the chicken marsala. I appreciate the clear and easy to read explanation which tells me that chicken marsala is chicken breast braised with marsala wine and cooked with garlic, mushrooms and shallots.

“It comes with a side,” says my waiter. “You get one side.”

He shows me the list of sides and they don’t look like sides to me but rather extra meals. I select the fettuccini alfredo.

My dinner arrives a few minutes later and it looks very good and hot. I cut the chicken into pieces and attempt to eat one piece but it is very hot, so I wait a few minutes.

Chicken marsala with a side of fettuccini alfredo is pictured Monday, March 31, 2025, at Toscafino in Brownsville. (Travis M. Whitehead | Valley Morning Star)

I enjoy this waiting. The personality of Toscafino, its quiet and its soft lighting and the genuine respect of wait staff allows me time to reflect on matters that are important to me.

The things which matter to me at the moment are the record-breaking flood waters that just hit the Valley, the fact that the butterfly garden at LeMoyne Gardens has good drainage and is now bursting with growth, and the deportations.

I begin working slowly on my food now, and this brilliant marriage of flavors — the garlic and shallots and mushrooms — is a pure joy. I eat slowly to savor each bite, and when I begin feeling full, I stop awhile before continuing. The fettuccini alfredo is equally amazing, and I am happy to be at Toscafino where I can take my time and relax while enjoying my dinner.

Now I think of the days ahead and my journeying into Mexico for a time to escape the insanity.

Toscafino is open noon to 2 a.m. Monday through Saturday and noon to 8 p.m. Sunday.

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